Contents: LA RESERVA *  - S'ALBUFERA ** - SA CALOBRA ** - SA DRAGONERA *  - SANT ELM **  - SANTA EUGENIA *  - SANTA MARIA DEL CAMI *   - SANTA PONSA *  - SANTANYI *  - SANTUARI DE SANT SALVADOR **
	LA RESERVA * On the slopes of Puig de Galatzo near the village of Puigpunyent, this nature reserve describes itself as 'Mallorca's paradise' A 3-km trail of waymarked paths leads you through Mallorca's mountain scenery in less than two hours, past waterfalls and springs, olive trees and charcoal stoves A series of boards provides background information on wildlife and mountain industries. Well laid out and interesting, the reserve gives you a feeling for the area it will seem a bit sterile if you have been out in the mountains on your own but it might help you to make sense of what you have already seen S'ALBUFERA ** Just off the coast road 5km south of Port d'Alcudia, the S'Albufera wetlands make a welcome relief from long stretches of crowded beach. Birdwatchers come from all over Europe to see rare migrants like Montagu's harriers and Eleanora's falcons; species breeding here include stonechats, moustached warblers and the long-eared owl. Ospreys leave their breeding sites on the cliffs to come here to fish; peregrines and hoopoes live here all year round. The name derives from the Arabic for 'lagoon', but the site has been exploited since Roman times. Pliny writes of night herons, probably from S'Albufera, being sent to Rome as a gastronomic delicacy. The wetlands were drained for agriculture in the l9th century by a British company which subsequently went bankrupt; the network of canals dates from this time. Rice was introduced in the early 20th century, paper was manufactured from the reeds and sedge, and it is only since 1985, following fears that tourist development was damaging the area's fragile ecology, that S'Albufera has been a protected nature reserve. There are footpaths, cycle trails, birdwatching hides and an audio visual display room where you can listen birdsong. SA CALOBRA ** Do not believe anyone who tells you that they have discovered the perfect unspoilt cove on the north coast - at least, not if its name is Sa Calobra. This is indeed a beautiful spot, which is why tour buses pour in by the dozen every day, even in winter. The journey to Sa Calobra is as memorable as the bay itself. A twisting road around Puig Major plunges 800m in just 12km, turning 270 degrees at one point to loop under itself (a feature known as the 'Knotted Tie') The easier approach is by boat from Port de Soller, passing genuinely isolated bays with an excellent view of Puig Major, albeit spoilt by the military installations on the summit of Mallorca's highest mountain. Once there, walk through 200m of tunnels to reach the Torrent de Pareis ('twin streams'), which begins several kilometres up in the mountains at the confluence of the torrents of Lluc and Gorg Blau. Up to 400m high and only 30m wide, with some sections never seeing daylight, this dramatic gorge culminates in a small pebble beach where you can picnic among the crowds. In summer, when the gorge is dry, you can hike inland between the cliffs; do not attempt this in winter. A side turn off the road to Sa Calobra leads to Cala Tuent, a small cove with a sandy beach and a 13th-century church, Ermita de Sant Llorenc. Cala Tuent is likely to be quieter than Sa Calobra; but don't believe anyone who tells you they have discovered the real unspoilt cove. SA DRAGONERA * This uninhabited island off Mallorca's western tip was the focus for a turning point in Mallorcan history in 1977, when it was occupied by environmentalists protesting against a planned tourist development. The campaigners won, the island became a nature reserve instead, the seabirds survived, and for the first time the authorities realised that mass tourism had reached its limit. Six kilometres long and crowned by an ancient watchtower, Sa Dragonera takes its name from its shape, said to resemble a dragon. You can visit in summer by boat from Sant Elm; in winter you have to make do with views of the dragon from the beach at Sant Elm or from the climb to Sa Trapa. SANT ELM ** The main reason for visiting Sant Elm, a laid back resort with a fine sandy beach, is for the views of Sa Dragonera. You can take a boat to the island from the jetty at the end of the main street, or sit outside the fish restaurants on the same jetty. A popular walk from Sant Elm leads to the abandoned Trappist monastery of Sa Trapa. Set out on Avinguda de la Trapa and climb through coastal maquis and pine, with fine views of Sa Dragonera. The round trip takes about three hours; a shorter route is signposted beside the cemetery on the Sant Elm to Andratx road. Near here is the village of S'Arraco, built by Spanish settlers returning from the American colonies, with houses in colonial Indianos style. SANTA EUGENIA * People argue over whether the mountains or the coast represent 'the real Mallorca', but the heart of the island is to be found in villages like this. The bars are frequented by local farmers and make few concessions to tourism; there is nothing to see as such, just marvellous views across to the serra where the mountains rise out of the plain and you can just make out the white sanctuary church above the ruins of Castell d'Alaro in the distance. The old 6-km cart track to Sencelles offers good walking and more views, over the postcard village of Biniali. SANTA MARIA DEL CAMI * This market town on the Palma-lnca railway has developed a reputation as one of Mallorca's artistic centres. Most of the island's potters work close by, in Porto, and Santa Maria is the centre of manufacture of roba de llengues ('cloth of tongues'), cotton woven into bright zigzag patterns and used in curtains, bedspreads and upholstery. Just off the main square is Ca'n Conrado, former Carmelite cloisters and a peaceful retreat from the traffic on the Palma road. SANTA PONSA * Santa Ponsa may look like just another beach resort but it has a permanent place in Mallorcan history. It was here that Jaume I landed in 1229 to begin his conquest of Mallorca, a conquest he described as 'the best thing man has done for a hundred years past'. A relief on a large cross above the marina, erected in 1929, records the event. SANTANYI * Do not be surprised if the buildings in Santanyi look just that little bit more mellow than everywhere else - this small town is the source of the golden sandstone used in Palma's cathedral and La Llotja among others. The old gate, Sa Porta Murada, seen as you enter the town from Palma, is a good example of Santanyi stone and a reminder that this was once a walled town. The parish church of Sant Andreu Apostel contains a massive rococo organ, designed by Jordi Bosch and brought here from a convent in Palma. The streets around the church are the focus for one of Mallorca's liveliest markets. SANTUARI DE SANT SALVADOR ** This old hermitage, 509m above sea level at the highest point of the Serra de Llevant, was the senior house of Mallorca's monastic order and the last to lose its monks, in 1992. It is still a popular place of pilgrimage, flanked by two enormous landmarks - to one side a 14m stone cross, to the other a 35m column topped by a statue of Christ holding out his right hand in blessing. The church contains a fine carved alabaster retable, but more interesting is the side chapel off the qatehouse, full of poignant mementos and prayers to Our Lady. Like other former monasteries, Sant Salvador has a few simple rooms available for pilgrims. The views from the terrace take in Cabrera, Cap de Formentor and several other hilltop sanctuaries dotted across the plain. From the statue of Christ you look out towards the Castell de Santueri, a 14th century rock castle built into the cliffs on the site of a ruined Arab fortress.