 |
MURO **
This small town between Inca and the S'Albufera marshes has one overriding attraction -
the Museu Etnologic de Mallorca. This museum, housed in a former mansion, gives
fascinating glimpses into Mallorca's past. The kitchen contains pottery similar to what
you see in the markets today, the recreated pharmacy has a pair of scales in the shape of
a crucifix. Upstairs there is a fine Collection of siurells (clay whistles) featuring men
on horseback, carrying water and playing guitars. A courtyard with a well, a waterwheel
and orange trees leads to more exhibits blacksmith's and cobbler's workshops, a collection
of carriages, and tools once used by siversmiths, sculptors and spoonmakers.
The Catalan-Gothic church of Sant Joan Baptista looks almost Arabic, guarded by palm trees
and a tall, square bell-tower linked to the main church by a tiny bridge. Rebuilt in the
16th century, it has a colourful rose window over the west door. Another church, the
convent of Santa Anna, used to stage fights between bulls and bulldogs, and bullfights can
still be seen at the Placa de Toros, built out of white stone in its own quarny in 1910.
Sa Pobla, 4km north of Mulo, is Mallorca's vegetable basket; this fertile area of marshes
reclaimed as farmland is referred to as 'the land of a thousand windmills' it is also the
home of one of Mallorca's most unusual festivals, the Revelta de Sant Antoni. For two days
each January pets are led through the town to be blessed outside the church, dancers drive
out the Devil for the coming year, and everyone eats pastries filled with spicy spinach
and marsh eels.
ORIENT **
Nervous drivers should not even think about tackling the road to Orient from Bunyola, with
bends at alarming angles and little in the way of barriers to stop you tumbling to your
death (there is a much easier approach from Alaro). But those who make it to this village
are rewarded with a marvellous sight - one of Mallorca's tiniest hamlets, with a
population of less than 30, nestling among olive trees at the foot of Puig d'Alfabia.
Orient is popular with walkers - numerous walks start from here, including an ascent to
Castel d'Alaro - and with weekend day trippers from Palma, who visit its three restaurants
for Sunday lunch.
PALMA NOVA *
There are people who can remember when this was just a village; then along came the
tourist boom, and 'new Palma' became the favoured resort Of the British. More restrained
than Magalluf, less exclusive than Portals Nous, Palma Nova occupies a prime position on
the western side of the bay of Palma. It makes a good base for a family holiday, with
nearby attractions includinig Marineland and Aquapark - as long as you don't mind sharing
your family holiday with a thousand others.
PEGUERA *
This beach resort, popular with German tour operators, was the first in Mallorca to have
its own artificial beach, created from imported sand. Once on the main road from Palma to
Andratx, it has become much more peaceful since the construction of a bypass and the
opening in 1996 of a seafront promenade. Just outside Peguera is Cala Fornells, a chic
resort of terracotta houses set around a pretty cove.
PETRA **
This sleepy town of sand coloured houses would be completely off the tourist map if it
were not the birthplace of Mallorca's most famous son, Fray Junipero Serra. Born in 1713
he became a priest in 1730 and worked as a missionary in Mexico from 1749 to 1763. At the
age of 54 he was sent to California; the missions he established there grew into some of
the USA's largest cities including San Diego and San Francisco.
You can visit the house where Serra's parents lived, a museum devoted to his life and
work, the font where he was baptised (in the church of Sant Pere) and a plaque outside the
same church describing him as 'explorer missionary hero civiliser'. Anyone walking down
the street leading to his birthplace decorated with majolica tiles depicting him baptising
Native Americans might be inclined to disagree but by the standards of his day he was
certainly a hero.
PLATJA DE PALMA *
If you cannot wait to get on a beach this 5-km stretch of fine white sand is just minutes
from the airport. The two resorts of Can Pastilla and S'Arenal have merged into one
connected by a ong palm-lined promenade offering every possible entertainment in summer.
This is a good resort for families - there are children's playgrounds and first-aid
stations and a 'tourist train' runs the length of the promenade. Take a passeig here
before dinner and you have a fabulous view of Palma, the twinkling lights on the
waterfront reflected in the sea. But be bear in mind, it is crowded, full of Germans, and
at night - sleep is definately out of the question between June and August.

POLLENCA ***
At the eastern end of the Serra de Tramuntana and tucked between two hills, each topped by
a sacred site, Pollenca is the perfect Mallorcan town. Large enough to avoid being twee
but small enough to wander round in a morning, it has none of the feel of other towns
which have succumbed under the sheer weight of tourism. Foreigners have long been
attracted here, but Pollenca has learned to accept and adapt to tourism without losing its
soul. Cafe life is still the rule; if you want to join in, come on a Sunday morning when
the Placa Major is filled with market stalls and the locals congregate after church to
relax in the Cafe Espanyol.
The Pont Roma (Roman bridge) on the edge of town gives a clue to Pollenca's long history.
The name Pollenca dates from the 14th century, when settlers from Alcudia named the town
after their former Roman capital. Among many historic buildings is a former Jesuit
convent, now the town hall. From here you climb 365 steps, lined with cypress trees, to
reach the Calvari church with its ancient wooden cross and views of Puig de Maria. The
Calvari steps are the scene of a moving procession each Good Friday, when a figure of
Christ is removed from a cross and carried down the steps by torchlight.
The municipal museum in the former Dominican convent contains the remains of prehistoric
sculptures shaped like bulls, as well as a mandate (Tibetan sand painting) given by the
Dalai Lama in 1990. The cloisters of the convent are the venue for Pollenca's celebrated
classical music festival.
PORRERES *
Porreres is typical of the small towns on the Mallorcan plain - nothing much to see, but
an easy-going atmosphere and a good place to while away a couple of hours. The main street
Avinguda Bisbe Campins, runs from the church to the town hall and is lined with bars and
cafes. Inside the town hall is a small modern art gallery with two works by Salvador Dali.
Just outside Porreres is a former hilltop hermitage, Santuari de Montesio, with a simple
chapel, irregular cloisters and views across the plain and out to sea. You can stay here
in very basic rooms.
PORT D'ALCUDIA *
As the name suggests, this was once just a port serving a city - now the port has
completely outgrown the town that it serves. The biggest of the resorts on Mallorca's
northeast coast, it stands at the head of a 10-km stretch of sandy beach which continues
around the bay of Alcudia as far as Can Picafont. The area around the fishing harbour is
the most attractive; the promenade on Passeig Maritim faces a row of fish restaurants.
Near here is the commercial port, where passenger ferries leave for the Menorcan city of
Ciutadella.
PORT D'ANDRATX **
Dress up to come here, or you will feel seriously out of place. Port d'Andratx is one of
Mallorca's classiest resorts, popular with the yachting fraternity and with film stars
whose Italian-style villas can be seen climbing up the hillsides. But don't let that put
you off; come here all the same. The harbour is one of the prettiest in Mallorca and a
table at one of the waterside bars is really the perfect place to watch the sunset. |