Contents: CABRERA *  - CALA D'OR **  - CALA FIGUERA **   - CALA MAJOR *  - CALA MILLOR * - CALA RAJADA *  - CALVIA *
	CABRERA * 'Goat island' is the largest in a rocky archipelago lying 20km off the south coast. Pliny claimed it as the birthplace of Hannibal; during the Napoleonic Wars it became a notorious prison camp. Since 1916 it has been a military base and since 1991 a protected national park as well. You can only get there on a day trip by boat, with time to walk up to the 14th-centuny castle above the harbour and look out for seabirds nesting on the craggy cliffs. CALA D'OR ** Each of the various calas (bays) along the east coast has its own distinctive character; in the case of Cala d'or the word is 'chic'. Former fishing harbours have been turned into marinas; people come here to sail and dive, and drink champagne at waterfront bars. The villas are white and flat-roofed, in Ibizan style, designed in the 1930s by Pep Costa Ferrer, and the effect is surprisingly attractive. Nowadays Cala d'or is the collective name for a string of resorts, beaches and coves; they include Porto Petro, around a horseshoe bay 2km to the south, and Cala Mondrago, a further 4km south, where a pair of sandy beaches are linked by a concrete path. CALA FIGUERA ** More than anywhere else in Mallorca, Cala Figuera retains the atmosphere of a working fishing port. White-painted houses reach down to the water's edge and fishermen sit on the steps mending nets if you get here early enough in the morning you might even see the catch coming in. A path follows around the tiny harbour and onto the cliffs, offering good views back towards the bay. The nearest beach is 4km to the south at Cala Santanyi CALA MAJOR * Cala Major and its neighbour Sant Agusti were two of Mallorca's earliest resorts; now they are virtually suburbs of Palma. The tourists have moved elsewhere and there is a definite feel of an area that has seen better days. The king still comes, though, to his summer residence Marivent, where frequent guests include Britain's Prince Charles; and Mallorca's most important art collect on is here in Joan Miro's old house and studio. CALA MILLOR * Fifty years ago this was a lonely dune-covered shore; now it has become the major resort on Mallorca's east coast. The main attraction is its fine sandy beaches; from Cala Bona ('the good bay') to Cala Millor ('the better bay') they stretch unbroken for 2km. In summer it is 'lively', travel-agent speak for brash, and best avoided unless you like discos and late-night bars; in winter it takes on a new atmosphere, as a resort for the 'young at heart', another travel-agent euphemism. To see what this coast used to be like, walk to the headland at Punta de n'Amer. CALA RAJADA * This fishing port on Mallorca's eastern tip, surrounded by fine beaches and pretty coves, has two different characters depending on when you go. In winter it virtually shuts down, apart from a few permanent locals and a handful of bars on the promenade; in summer it is a crowded resort, with windsurfing, snorkelling, and numerous discos. Many Germans have second homes here; there have been complaints in the Mallorcan press that it is becoming a 'German colony'. A short walk uphill from the beach leads through wood and to the lighthouse at Punta de Capdepera. Also above the harbour are the Jardins Casa March, owned by the same banking family as the colleccio March in Palma. The gardens contain a sculpture park with works by Rodin, Henry Moore and modern Catalan artists. They can only be visited by prior arrangement with the tourist office. CALVIA * Calvia is like an old lady who has won the loteria and doesn't know how to cope with her success. Until recently an unassuming country town, Calvia hit the jackpot when tourists discovered the nearby beaches and it is now said to be the richest municipality in Spain. There are a few ostentatious signs of wealth, like the sparkling new town hall and sports stadium, but mostly life continues as before, with ochre-coloured houses, a handful of shops and bars, and chickens scrambling between the olive trees. The town is dominated by the church of Sant Joan Baptsta, built in the late 19th century around the 13th century original; near here, by a fountain, a ceramic mural tells the story of Calvia's history. Founded in 1249 with 80 inhabitants, the town had a population of 3,000 in 1960 and 11,560 in l980 all because of toursim. Stand on the terrace looking out over almond and carob trees and it is hard to believe you are just a few kilometres from the teeming resents of 'Maganova'.